Sunday, October 14, 2012

Jungfrau and the Hike of Death

The third day of our trip in Grindelwald was overcast.  On our agenda was a train ride up to the top of Europe - a peak called Jungfrau.  After that, Karen and K would take the train back down to the chalet and Matt and I would hike the Eiger Trail.
There were two different trains we had to take to get up to the top of Jungfrau.  Sadly, about halfway through the first train ride, I realized I did not have my phone.  Kellan and I had a rather difficult diaper changing session in the public restroom at the train station and I was convinced I had lost it in the scuffle.  At first, I figured someone would just turn it in and I would get it later.  Then the attendant on the train began to warn me that if someone found it and began to use it they could rack up some major international charges.  So when we reached the point to change trains, I descended the mountain to locate my phone and Matt, Karen and Kellan continued on to the top of Europe.  I was kicking myself.  Lame.

Those people on the trip intelligent enough to not lose track of their personal belongings had a great time at the top of Europe.  It wasn't overcast that high up, so there were many opportunities for both Matt and Karen to get some great photos.
 The compound that is perched atop Jungfrau is like a maze.  In one section is a viewing tower where you can view that amazing surroundings inside or out.
 Inside was a cave system of sorts designed for kids that had cool lights...
 ...and creepy paper mache statues.
 Next up was the super cool ice cave.  An area of Jungfrau that is all ice.  This was by far Kellan's favorite, I hear.  (I was on a train at this point riding back up to the top, IPhone in hand.  It had fallen out in the car, not in the bathroom.  So my multiple train rides up and down Jungfrau were pointless.  For those of you that know me, as much as it saddens me to say this, no one was surprised by this outcome.)
 I finally made it to the top and had my chance to see the top of Europe.
 Treacherous view beneath my feet as I stood on the viewing platform.
My time at the top was brief, and shortly after my arrival we caught our train back down the mountain.  K feel asleep in Grammy's arms and Matt and I snuck off of the train to start our hike of the Eiger Trail.
We spotted the trail, then noticed a man coming down from a trail that seemed to branch off of the Eiger Trail up the mountain.  We asked him if he was coming off of the Eiger Trail.  He explained the trail from which he was descending was a branch off of the Eiger Trail that eventually met up with it.  Feeling adventurous as we were without child, Matt went to check it out while I took pictures.
He thought it looked doable, so he encouraged me to join him, and I did so reluctantly.  As I scrambled up after him, I began to realize that this "trail" was more like a balance beam covered in rocks with a sheer rock face to the right (not much to grab onto) and a very steep, very high drop-off (cliff) to the left.  I tried not to think about it at first, assuming the trail would widen.
It did not widen.  In fact, I remember leaning against the wall to my right multiple times praying that I would not slide off the trail and fall to my death.  All the while, my husband, the mountain goat, is cruising along ahead of me (in running shoes, mind you!), saying, "It gets easier, Honey!  You're doing great!"
He wasn't afraid at all.  I couldn't believe it.  When we finally reached the place where the trail "meets up" with the Eiger Trail, we realized the path to the trail was more like a hill - steeper than a 45 degree angle - covered in rocks.  Matt swore he had just seen someone go down it, but I was convinced they were repelling down it, not walking.  It was too steep!  I refused (very dramatically - though in my defense I was terrified) to do it and we had to go back across the trail of death.  Finally, we made our way back down to the real Eiger Trail.  For obvious reasons, there aren't any pictures of this part of the hike.
 This is a fake smile.  Still mad about the hike of death.
 Scenery is starting to make me stop being angry and just grateful to be alive....
 And eventually I started having fun and enjoying the rare event of an afternoon alone with my husband, who wasn't really trying to kill me earlier...  He just wanted to explore a bit.  Next time we will remember the Bermese Alps are not the safest place to choose the road less traveled.  (Matt will still insist it wasn't that bad.)
Clearly he is a trustworthy man.
In all seriousness, we had an awesome time on the Eiger Trail. It was challenging, beautiful and just plain fun. An experience of a lifetime.
Matt had fun giving me a lesson on the different ways to take pictures of water with our camera.  While I am the one who takes most of the pictures, he is quite the expert!  There were plenty of great waterfalls that allowed us to experiment.
 At the end of the trail, we saw that there were paths that would lead us down the mountain all the way back to our chalet - about three more miles of hiking downhill.  Conveniently, we happened upon a restaurant and enjoyed a beer about halfway down and then made our way back.  It was a steep descent down, which was super challenging after a while and left us pleasantly exhausted by the time we arrived at the chalet.
The next day we would explore Switzerland a bit more (in a much more tame way) and then head to a quiet wine town in France...

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